We rounded the corner of some tents, appreciating the quality of the impressive toilets at the festival, whereupon, spread before our eyes, under a blazing sun, was a field of almost naked naga baba initiates. I was stunned. This was a significant part of the ceremony, and there were no other western people there – I was so very privileged see this.


There were older saddhus walking amongst them, handing things out with the air of school teachers overseeing exams.


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